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Diqqat: Bruklində All Nutella restorani ochilmoqda

Diqqat: Bruklində All Nutella restorani ochilmoqda


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Menyuda hamma narsada Nutella bo'ladi? Kechirasiz, biz oqayotgan suvni tozalaymiz.

Butun-Nutella restorani shokoladli orzular ro'yobga chiqqanga o'xshaydi! Nutelleriya, tez orada Bruklindagi Park Slope mahallasida nonushta, shirin taomlar va boshqa shokoladli-findiqli taomlardan iborat restoran ochiladi. Qaymoqli pishloq, meva va Nutella qo'shilgan nonushta pizza kabi jiddiy og'izni chayqatadigan narsalarni kuting; a Nutella-pastırma-banan vafli sendvichi; va, albatta, Nutella kreplari.

Ammo bu erda gap bor: Nutella restoranini shokoladli muxlislar boshqaradi va aslida Nutellaning bosh kompaniyasi Ferrero bilan bog'liq emas, restoran aslida noqonuniy bo'lishi mumkin.

Biz Ferreroga izoh olish uchun bordik, lekin javobni eshitmadik. Aftidan, tez orada advokatlar Nutelleriyaning eshigini taqillatishadi, chunki Nutella ro'yxatdan o'tgan savdo belgisidir va Ferrero restoranlarni o'z taomlari va shirinliklari nomini o'zgartirishga majbur qilgan. o'tmishda. Eataly -dagi Nutella bari bundan mustasno, chunki ular Nutella -dagi odamlar bilan 50 yoshida bevosita hamkorlik qilgan.th yubiley tantanalari.

Ammo Nutelleriya aholisi juda xavotirlanmaganga o'xshaydi, chunki ular Facebook, Twitter va Instagramda ijtimoiy tarmoqlarda virusli kampaniyani boshladilar.

Shunday qilib, katta savol, bu go'zal jannat qachon ochiladi? Nutelleriya sirli ravishda "juda tez orada" deydi. Buning uchun biz kavanoz ko'taramiz.

Oziq -ovqat va ichimliklar dunyosida sodir bo'layotgan so'nggi voqealar uchun bizning saytimizga tashrif buyuring Oziq -ovqat yangiliklari sahifa.

Joanna Fantozzi "Daily Meal" gazetasining bosh muharriri. Uni Twitterda kuzatib [email protected]


Bir restoranning yangi raqamli hayoti

Pandemiya kichik korxonalarni yangi raqamli odatlarga o'tishga majbur qildi va ko'pchilik hozir qolish uchun shu erda.

Pandemiyadan keyingi restoran nimaga o'xshaydi? Bruklindagi O'rta er dengizi restoranida joylashgan Glasserie restoranida sotuvlar yulduzli, xodimlar ingichka va xo'jayin texnologiyadan hayajonlanadi - lekin faqat uning sharti bilan.

O'tgan yili men Glasserie haqida va texnologiya pandemiyaga moslashishga qanday yordam bergani va zarar etkazgani haqida yozgan edim. Men bu haftada Glasserie egasi Sara Konklin bilan uchrashib, restoranda AQShda koronavirus tiklanishining dastlabki bosqichi qanday o'tayotganini (barmoqlari kesilgan) bilib oldim.

Glasserie tajribasi, inqiroz paytida bizni majbur qilgan raqamli odatlar nafaqat korporativ texnologiya titanlari, balki kichik korxonalar uchun ham porloq kelajakni yaratishga yordam berishining umidvor belgisidir.

Konklin menga pandemiya uni restoranni uzoq muddatda yordam berishiga ishonadigan usulda bilimdon bo'lishga majbur qilganini aytdi. U restoranlarga, xususan, oziq-ovqat etkazib berish dasturlariga xizmat ko'rsatadigan ba'zi texnologiyalardan hafsalasi pir bo'lmoqda, lekin boshqalardan, jumladan, mijozlar o'z telefonlarida hisobini to'lash uchun foydalanmoqchi bo'lgan smartfon dasturidan xursand.

Bu Konklin Glasserie -ni yanada samarali va daromadli qilishini aytgan raqamli xizmatlar. "Bular pandemiya bo'lganmi yoki yo'qmi, men saqlamoqchiman", dedi u. "Biz oldinga intilishda davom etmoqchimiz."

O'tgan yilning ko'p qismi, umuman, chalkashliklar haqida edi. Glasserie -ning ovqat xonasi yopilgan yoki sig'imi jiddiy cheklangan. U yo'qolgan biznesning o'rnini to'ldirishga harakat qilib, shisha vino va tualet qog'ozi kabi narsalarni sotadigan onlayn mini -kartani ochdi. U alkogolli ichimliklar va atir -upalarni yangi qabul qilish oynasi orqali sotishni boshladi va xodimlar elektron pochta xabarlarini yozib, uydagilarga ovqat tayyorlash uchun ovqatlarni taklif qilishdi.

Bu pandemik moslashuvlarning hammasi tugadi. Boshqa restoranlar xabar berganidek, odamlar yana ovqatlanishni xohlaydilar va Glasserie ularga xizmat qilishdan xursand. "Biz hozir deyarli 10 yillik hayotimizdagidan ko'ra bandmiz", dedi menga Konklin. Bu hatto Nyu -Yorkdagi yopiq ovqatlanish imkoniyatlari chegaralangan bo'lsa ham.

Konklin, shuningdek, pandemiya uni Glasserie texnologiyasiga shubha bilan qaraganini aytdi. "Men har doim qarshilik ko'rsatganman", dedi u, hamma texnologiyalarga emas, balki u to'sqinlik qilgan yoki atmosferani buzganlarga. "Bu menga to'g'ri kelmadi." Ammo hozir u texnologiyadan hayajonlanmoqda - hech bo'lmaganda bir qismi.

2020 yilda Glasserie -da Seamless, Grubhub va DoorDash kabi boshqa etkazib berish va olib ketish dasturlaridan foydalanishni tanlashdan boshqa chora qolmadi. Boshqa restoran egalari singari, Konklin ham chalkash so'zlar va yuqori xarajatlardan shikoyat qildi.

So'nggi paytlarda Glasserie, restoranlarga raqamli kassa apparatlari va boshqa texnologiyalarni sotadigan Square funktsiyasidan foydalanib, etkazib berish buyurtmalarini to'g'ridan -to'g'ri restoran veb -saytida qabul qilmoqda. Conklin bu buyurtmalarni Postmates yoki DoorDash -da ishlaydigan kurerlarga qo'shimcha haq evaziga topshirish xususiyatidan foydalanadi.

Uning so'zlariga ko'ra, bu Glasserie etkazib berishni taklif qilishning bir usuli, lekin restoran o'z veb -saytida va ko'proq nazorat ostida. Agar oshxona taqillatilsa, Glasserie etkazib berish variantini vaqtincha to'xtatib qo'yishi mumkin.

Konklin hali ham etkazib berish xarajatlarini yoqtirmaydi. U Glasserie etkazib berish provayderlariga nima to'laganini bilmasligini aytdi, bu esa dastur kompaniyalarining to'lovlari qanchalik murakkabligini ko'rsatdi. "Men buni bilishim uchun menga bir -ikki soat va haqiqiy matematika kerak bo'ladi", dedi u.

Bu, shuningdek, Glasserie -ning etkazib berish buyurtmalarini kuzatib borishga imkoni yo'qligi va muammoni hal qilish uchun juda kech bo'lgunga qadar, kech etkazib berish yoki to'yib ovqatlanishni bilmasligi uni bezovta qiladi.

Ammo Konklinning eng katta bosh og'rig'i texnologiya emas. Bu etarli ishchilarni topadi. Glasserie kompaniyasi Craigslist va restoran lavozimlarida xodimlarni reklama qildi va sobiq xodimlari bilan aloqaga chiqdi. Bu sekin o'tdi.

Men Konklindan so'radim, u va Glasserie o'tmishdagi favqulodda holat rejimini yangi bosqichga o'tkazganida hozir qanday his qilyapsiz. Uning so'zlariga ko'ra, u o'zini optimistik va noaniq his qilgan, lekin asosan yaxshi ma'noda. "Biz noldan restoran ochayotganga o'xshaymiz", dedi u.


Gumbo jig'a Nashvilni Nyu -Orleanga taskin beruvchi kajun va kreol taomlari orqali qutqaradi.

Gumbo Bros, Bruklindagi "Cajun/Creole" restorani, 3-mart, chorshanba kuni Nashvillda (Gulchda) ikkinchi manzilini ochadi. Ha, Bruklin Gumbo Bros uchun birinchi joy bo'lishi mumkin edi. Bu sizni chalg'itmasin, bu bolalar Cajun mamlakatidan.

Oshpaz/asoschilaridan biri/Mobile, Alabama shtatining fuqarosi Adam Latan va asoschilaridan biri Clay Boulware LSUda uchrashishdi, u erda ular xonadoshlar edilar. Latan bolaligining ko'p qismini ko'rfaz sohilida Nyu -Orleanga sayohat qilib, oilasini ziyorat qilgan va, albatta, NOLA madaniyatiga singib ketganda, shaharning barcha ajoyib taomlarini yeb qo'ygan.

Kollejni tugatgandan so'ng, ular Nyu -Yorkka ko'chib ketishdi va yaxshi qisqichbaqalar, gumbo va po'boylar uchun variantlar etishmasligini payqashdi. Pop-uplar, festivallar va ovqatlanishdan boshlangan narsa 2016 yilda duetning birinchi restoraniga aylandi va Nashvil ularning birinchi kengayishi uchun tanlandi-Gulchdagi sobiq Bar Otaku maydoni.

"Biz bu joyni o'tgan yili biz boshdan kechirgan mutlaq BSdan qochish bo'lishini xohlaymiz. Biz TGBni "tushlikda pivo iching, bu erda muhim emas" degan ma'noni anglatuvchi klassik kajun/bar taomlari yuqori bo'lgan joy bo'lishini xohlaymiz. Siz hozir frantsuz ko'chasida bo'lmasligingiz mumkin, lekin bu xuddi shunday. yaqinlashdi ", deydi Latan.

Gumbo Brosning bolalari Nyu -Orleanlik Leidengeymer nonvoyxonasining frantsuz nonidan boshlanadi, keyin salat, pomidor, Dyuk mayosi va tuzlangan bodring kiyingan holda keladi. Kechqurunlar qovurilgan qisqichbaqalar, istiridye, Missisipi balig'i, qoldiqlari bilan qovurilgan mol go'shti yoki qovurilgan yashil pomidor va remulad kabi klassikalarni tanlashlari mumkin. "Xushbo'y shimlar" po'boy variantlari sörf "n" turfidan (qovurilgan qisqichbaqalar, qovurilgan mol go'shti va qoldiq) "tinchlik o'rnatuvchiga" (qovurilgan qisqichbaqalar, qovurilgan istiridye va qalampirli pishloqli) qadar o'zgaradi. Gumbo Bros muntazam ravishda dengiz mahsulotlarini ko'rfazdan har bir restoranga olib boradi.

Latanning menyusida gumboslar uchligi bor, ularning hammasi to'g'ri buvisi enasidan o'rgangan to'g'ri retseptga asoslangan. "Gumbo Bros" oshxonasida 14 soat davomida uy quritilgan gumbo pishirish texnikasi shu kungacha ishlatilgan va menyudagi uchta gumbos uchun asos bo'lib xizmat qiladi: kajun tovuq va kolbasa gamboni (kajun uslubidagi quyuq rukli tutunli gumbo) andouille kolbasasi, kajun ziravorli tovuq go'shti va tovuq suyaklari), enaganing dengiz mahsulotlari Gumbo (qirg'oq uslubidagi gumbo filesi kukuni, yangi qisqichbaqalar va qisqichbaqali ko'k qisqichbaqa go'shti) va gumbo z'herbes (vegan va kleykovinsiz) Yangi Orlean uslubidagi klassik gumbo, qayin, yoqa, maydanoz va xantal ko'katlari, fileto gamboni va qovurilgan sabzavotli bug'doy). Gumbo z'herbes retsepti dastlab yaxshi juma kuni bilan bog'liq edi, unda diniy kuzatuvchi go'sht, tovuq yoki baliq iste'mol qila olmasdi.

Bundan tashqari, menyuda dudlangan boudin sharlari (Peg Leg Porker cho'chqa go'shtidan tayyorlangan), qovurilgan qovurilgan Luiziana alligator nuggetlari, Cajun vafli kartoshkalari, Luiziana shtatida ishlab chiqarilgan Zapp chiplari va banan pudingi bor.

Alkogolli ichimliklar haqida gap ketganda, Gumbo Bros Nyu -Orlean mavzusiga o'tishni davom ettiradi, uy bo'ronlari va daikirislar, Tabasko margaritalari yonida. Shuningdek, mahalliy Nashvil va Nyu -Orlean pivolari tanlovi bo'ladi.

Ko'p kutilgan Nyu-Orlean uslubidagi tez tasodifiy joy, 505 12-Avenyu janubidagi Bar Otaku-ning sobiq joyiga kirdi va, albatta, Nyu-Orleanning his-tuyg'ularini hisobga olgan holda, yangi ko'rinishga ega. Latanning otasi, pudratchi va konservant, Yangi Orlean portidan qutqarilgan yog'och Gumbo Bros Nashvilning keng barini tashkil qiladi, tepasida pelikanlar bilan qo'lda bezatilgan oq sharsimon kulonlar osilgan. Lea Cheyz, Tennessi Uilyams va Jeyms Buker kabi Nyu-Orlean buyuklarining rasmlari, shuningdek, Alabamadagi sobiq to'qimachilik fabrikasining 150 yillik yangilangan chinor taxtalaridan (shuningdek, Latanning otasi orqali) ishlangan rasmlar qo'shimcha qiziqish uyg'otadi.

Yuqorida aytib o'tilganidek, bu Gumbo Bros -ning ikkinchi iteratsiyasi, 2016 yilda Nyu -Yorkda ochilgan Bruklindagi uy bazasidan so'ng (va butun mamlakat bo'ylab katta e'tiborga sazovor bo'lgan). Latan pandemiya paytida restoran ochish jarayonini tasvirlab beradi, boshqa shaharda esa "samolyotga parvoz paytida yonilg'i quyish kabi. Har safar biz nimanidir aniqladik deb o'ylaganimizda, bizni egri to'p tashlaydi. Biz Bruklindagi pandemiya avj olgan paytda hamma narsani tezda bilib olishimiz kerak edi, shuning uchun g'alati tarzda, bizni yaxshi operator bo'lishga va xodimlarimiz, mijozlarimiz va biznesimiz xavfsizligi uchun yaxshiroq tanlov qilishga tayyorlaganga o'xshaydi. ” Latanning aytishicha, Nashvilning ikkinchi joyi tabiiy joy edi, chunki u janubga qaytishni xohlagan va gullab -yashnayotgan shaharni va uning mehmondo'stlik sanoatini yaxshi ko'radi. "Restoran hamjamiyati juda ahil va boshqa operatorlar, oshpazlar, sotuvchilar va hatto uy egalarimiz biz bilan shartnoma tuzishdi, agar biz biron joyda Coviddan qutulish uchun pul tikmoqchi bo'lsak, biz hamma narsani kiyamiz. Nashvil. "

Nashviliyaliklar Luiziana shtatining to'la ruhini boshdan kechirishini kutishlari mumkin, chunki Gumbo Bros LSU va Saints muxlislari uchun o'yin kunlari, bo'ronlar va daikirislar, istiridyaning baxtli vaqti, kerevitlar qaynashi va jazz brunchini rejalashtiradi. bahor


"Recipe Club" dan barcha retseptlar

Oshpaz Deyv Chang va Majordomo Media fikridan, Retseptlar klubi mashhur taom tayyorlashning eng yaxshi usullarini o'rganadi. Har hafta Deyv va Kris Yingga bir xil taomning uch xil retseptini tayyorlash, yeyish va hukm qilish uchun oshpazlik bo'yicha mutaxassislar qo'shiladi.

Endi siz biz bilan birga o'z uyingizda ovqat tayyorlashingiz mumkin. Quyida siz har bir epizodni, biz ko'rsatuvda tayyorlagan har bir retseptni topasiz. Sizni oshxonada ko'ramiz!

26 -qism: Pillsbury Tube Xamir

25 -qism: Yuca

Kris Ying, Bryan Ford va Priya Krishna butun dunyo madaniyatining asosiy taomini ifodalash uchun tanlagan uchta retseptini muhokama qiladilar: yuca.

24 -qism: Konservalangan orkinos

Deyv Chang va Kris Ying Reychel Xong tomonidan Amerika Qo'shma Shtatlaridagi uylarda topiladigan oshxona mahsuloti sifatida tanlangan uchta retseptni muhokama qilish uchun yana birlashdilar.

23 -qism: Dips

Yana bir "nikoh" epizodida Noel "snackmaster" Kornelio Kris Ying va Priya Krishnaga qo'shilib, ular cho'milish dunyosini namoyish etish uchun tanlagan uchta retseptni muhokama qiladi.

22 -qism: Spagetti

Deyv Chang va Kris Ying Priya Krishna tomonidan hamma vaqt eng keng tarqalgan oshxonalardan biri sifatida tanlangan uchta retseptni muhokama qilish uchun qo'shilishdi: spagetti.

21 -qism: nohut

Qayta tiklanayotgan barmen, oshpazlik kitobi muallifi va ichimliklar bo'yicha tadbirkor Jon deBari Deyv Chang va Kris Yinga qo'shilib, ular haqiqatan ham o'zgaruvchan ingredientni tanlash uchun uchta retseptni muhokama qilishdi: nohut.

20 -qism: Yassi non

Usta novvoy Bryan Ford Deyv Chang va Kris Yingga qo'shilib, ular butun dunyodan cheksiz takrorlanadigan, hamma yoqtirgan taomni taqdim etish uchun tanlagan uchta retseptni muhokama qilishadi: yassi non.

19 -qism: Okra

Deyv Chang yulduz tarkibiga bo'lgan nafratidan shu hafta o'tiribdi, shuning uchun Kris Yingga uchta bamya retseptini hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun Reychel Xong va Priya Krishna qo'shildi.

18 -qism: Martinis

Deyv Chang va Kris Ying yana uchta martini retseptini hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun adabiy doyen Reychel Xongga qo'shilishdi.

17 -qism: Biskvik

Deyv Chang va Kris Ying Bryan Ford bilan uchrashib, uchta retseptni muhokama qilishdi, bu bolalikdan eng sevikli biskvit aralashmasi yordamida xalqning eng yumshoq kreplarini tayyorlashdi: Biskvik.

16 -qism: baqlajon

Deyv va Kris Priya Krishna tomonidan, ayniqsa qutbli sabzavotni tanlash uchun tanlagan uchta retseptni hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun qayta qo'shilishdi. Retseptlar klubi davra suhbati: baqlajon.

15 -qism: Polenta/jo'xori uni

Deyv va Kris yana bir bor qo'shilishdi Retseptlar klubi doyenne Reychel Xong, ular tanlagan uchta retseptni hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun ko'plab nomlarni o'z ichiga olgan ingredientni: polenta, makkajo'xori yoki grits - bu italiyaliklar va Amerikaning janubi xalqlari tomonidan yaxshi ko'riladigan mushuk.

14 -qism: Guruch

Deyv va Krisga Jeyms Beard Jamg'armasi Kitob mukofoti sovrindori oshpaz JJ Jonson qo'shiladi, ular o'zlarining shaxsiy taomlari va dunyodagi oziq -ovqat madaniyatining asosi bo'lgan guruchni muhokama qilishadi.

Yo'q. 1: Susan-avakado jigarrang guruch
Yo'q. 2: Vaakye (Ganiyalik guruch va loviya)
Yo'q. 3: Tteokguk (guruchli kekli sho'rva)

13 -qism: Grexem Krakerlar

Bu mazali pechene uchun Google qidiruvidan ko'ra ko'proq narsa bormi? Buni bilish uchun Deyv va Krisga novvoy novvoy Brayan Ford qo'shiladi.

12 -qism: Halibut

Deyv va Kris Priya Krishna bilan qo'shilishdi, bu g'alabadan so'ng, ular tanlagan uchta retseptni hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun, bu podkastda juda tanqid qilingan. Halibut iste'mol qilmaydigan uch kishiga lazzatlanish uchun nima kerakligini bilib oling.

11 -qism: Cho'chqa go'shti

Reychel Xong Deyv va Kris bilan qaytib keldi, ular tanlagan uchta retseptni muhokama qilish uchun, bu haftaning tanlangan tarkibiy qismi: cho'chqa go'shti.

10 -qism: Boboli

Bryan Ford Deyv va Krisga yana uchta retseptini hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun qo'shildi-bu hafta Boboli tokchasida turadigan pizza qobig'iga tegishli. Bu podkast, Boboli tashkilotidan tashqarida, kimdir oziq-ovqat do'konining asosiy qismi haqida bo'lgan, eng uzun suhbatdan iborat.

9 -qism: Kastryulkalar

Priya Krishna Deyv va Krisga qo'shilib, ular tanlangan uchta taom ta'rifini hurmat bilan muhokama qilishadi. Bu tovuq-bekon-ranch boshlari uchun.

8 -qism: banan

Deyv va Krisni Reychel Xong kamtarin va hamma joyda joylashgan bananni kashf qilish uchun birlashtiradi. Stolga olib kelgan uchta retseptni hurmat bilan muhokama qilish paytida, Recipe Club uy oshpazligi nima bo'lishi va bo'lishi kerakligi haqidagi tasavvurimizni yangi g'oyalarini ochib beradi. Bu salqin qamchi sevuvchilar uchun.

7 -qism: Tuxum

Brayan Ford ushbu ajoyib epizod uchun Deyv va Krisga qo'shiladi Retseptlar klubi. Bu mikroto'lqinli pechlar uchun.

6 -qism: Gyoza

Deyv, Kris Ying va Priya Krishna o'zlari tanlagan gyoza retseptlarini, shuningdek, mukammal köfte nima ekanligini muhokama qilishadi.

5 -qism: Qovurilgan cho'chqa go'shti

Deyv va Krisga qovurilgan cho'chqa go'shtining uchta retseptini hurmat bilan muhokama qilish uchun adabiy doyen Reychel Xong qo'shiladi.

4 -qism: Brownies

Retseptlar klubi birinchi marta ovqat pishiradigan kitob muallifi va usta novvoy Bryan Ford Deyv va Krisga qo'shilib, ular tanlagan uchta kek retseptini muhokama qilishadi. Bu haqda gapirish kerakmi yoki yo'qmi, mikroto'lqinli pech katta ta'sir ko'rsatdi.

3 -qism: Kartoshka pyuresi

Bu karbongidrat va sut mahsulotlarining eng yuqori mavsumi va Priya Krishna kartoshka pyuresi retseptlarini muhokama qilish uchun qaytib keldi. Agar siz qimmatbaho restoranlarda pomme pyuresi qanday tayyorlanishi haqida hech o'ylab ko'rgan bo'lsangiz, bu siz uchun podkast.

2 -qism: to'ldirish

Shukrona kunini nishonlash uchun Deyv va Kris Reychel Xongga qo'shilishadi va ular uy qurishdan tortib to noldan farq qiladigan uchta retseptni muhokama qilishadi.

1 -qism: Turkiya

Inauguratsion qismda Priya Krishna qo'shiladi Retseptlar klubi minnatdorchilik bilan kurka yoki kurka qo'shni uchta retseptning ijobiy va salbiy tomonlarini hurmat bilan muhokama qilish.

Boshqa retseptlar uchun har hafta qaytib keling. Bizni Instagram (@recipeclub), Twitter (@majordomomedia) da kuzatishni va Facebook Recipe Club Podcast guruhimizga qo'shilishni unutmang. Obuna bo'ling va Spotify -ni kuzatib boring.


Bruklin barbekyu o'ziga xos tarzda saqlanadi

Sarlavha yakshanba kuni ertalab yangiliklar veb -saytlarini o'rganayotganimda kompyuter ekranida paydo bo'ldi:

Shubhasiz, provokatsion bayonot "Munchies" veb -saytiga, "Media Media" veb -saytiga e'tiborni jalb qilish uchun mo'ljallangan.

Maqolada ta'kidlanishicha, butun dunyoda ochiladigan Amerika uslubidagi barbekyu bo'g'inlarining hozirgi bumi Nyu-York shtatining Bruklindagi Fette Sau nomli barbekyu qo'shimchasidan ilhomlangan.

Yana provokatsion dalil. Lekin, shuningdek, noto'g'ri.

Muallif Janubiy va Markaziy Amerikadagi ikkita barbekyu uslubidagi restoranni va Ispaniyadagi bitta restoranni misol sifatida tilga olgan bo'lsa-da, o'z tajribamda Texas barbekyu an'analari va texnikasi diasporasini o'rganib chiqqanimda, men Bruklindagi barbekyu haqida hech qachon gapirmaganman.

Darhaqiqat, Parijdagi "Beast" va Londondagi Texas Jou's kabi barbekyu bo'g'inlari Texas piktogrammalari Franklin Barbekyu yoki Louie Myuller Barbekyularini ilhomlantiradi.

Amerika uslubidagi mangalni hujjatlashtirish uchun qilgan xalqaro sayohatlarimda hech kimni: "Bizni Fette Sau ilhomlantirgan", deganini eshitmaganman.

Maqolaga barbekyu tayyorlanadigan laganda tasviri ilova qilingan. Maqolaning keyingi tekshiruvi shuni ko'rsatdiki, u dastlab 2014 yilda nashr etilgan.

Men bu maqolani "clickbait" deb yozdim - bu provokatsion maqola, saytga trafikni jalb qilish va dollarni reklama qilish uchun turli dalillar bilan.

Ammo keyin u "virusli" bo'lib ketdi. Twitter va Facebook -dagi foydalanuvchilar - ko'pchilik barbekyu tayanch punktlari, jumladan Texas va Shimoliy Karolina - maqolani masxara qila boshladilar. Bizning Texas Sens -dan boshqa hech kim yo'q. Jon Kornin va Ted Kruz Tvitterda Bruklin barbekyu g'oyasi haqida hazil qilishdi.

Afsuski, ijtimoiy tarmoqlarning g'azabining katta qismi maqolaga emas, balki Bruklindagi barbekyuga qaratilgan edi. Ular maqoladagi mangalning qayg'uli rasmini Bruklindagi barbekyu bilan bog'lashdi. Munchies veb -sayti uchun bu maqola shayton bilan bitimga aylandi - ular o'z reklamachilariga ko'p marta bosishdi, lekin Bruklin barbekyu o'z obro'siga katta zarba berdi.

Va ha, Bruklin barbekyu barbekyu muxlislari orasida boshqa obro'ga ega. O'tgan yilning mart oyida "Nyu -York shtatining poytaxti? Hozircha" degan nomli ustunda men Bruklindagi barbekyu uchun ajoyib bo'g'inlar borligini aytganman, lekin ular Bruklindagi cho'qqilar uchun haqiqiy da'vogar bo'lish uchun etarli emas. barbekyu shahri.

Twitter guruhi hafta mobaynida invektivlik bilan yuragimni siqib yubordi. Men o'z do'stlarim tug'ilgan shahar Bar -B -Kvedan Billi Durnini va Izzining Smokehouse -dan Izzi Eidelmanni - Bruklindagi eng yaxshi barbekyu bo'g'imlaridan ikkitasi xuddi shu narsalarni o'qiyotganlarini tasavvur qildim. Billi va Izzi - men biladigan eng qiyin yigitlar, lekin ular o'zlarining sevimli mahallasi va u erda tayyorlagan barbekyu haqidagi salbiy matbuotni g'azablantirishi kerak edi.

Uyga yaqinroq men Xyustondagi El Burro va Bull barbekyu restoranining pitmasteri Jon Avilani chaqirdim. Ostindagi Franklin Barbekyu faxriysi Avila 2013 yilda Bruklinga ko'chib o'tdi va o'sha yili Morgan's Brooklyn Barbecue ochilishiga yordam berdi. U Bruklindagi barbekyu birinchi kunlarida oldingi qatorga ega edi.

Men Aviladan Bruklindagi sobiq hamkasblariga tanqidlarga qarshi turish uchun qanday maslahat berishini so'radim.

"Faqat silliqlashni davom eting", dedi Avila. "Morgan's Mark Roper va Fletcherdagi Mett Fisher kabi yigitlar Texas barbekisini bilishadi. Ular an'anani hurmat qilishadi. Faqat qilayotgan ishingizni davom ettiring."

Hatto 2014 yilda, men Bruklindagi barbekyu bilan shug'ullana boshlaganimda, Teksasliklarga Bruklindagi qonuniy barbekyu borligini aytish yolg'iz ish edi. Lekin men Durney va Eidelman kabi pitmasterlar bilan Texasda barbekyu qilishning buyuk an'analarini hurmat qilishlarini va nishonlashlarini bilish uchun etarli vaqt o'tkazdim.

Bruklindagi pitmaster o'zining barbekyu Texasdan ko'ra ta'sirli ekanligini da'vo qilishi dargumon. Bunday emas. Ammo bu ajoyib barbekyu. Men Nyu -Yorkka tashrif buyuradigan har qanday Texasliklarga Sharqiy daryo bo'ylab sayohat qilishlari va uni tekshirib ko'rishni qat'iy tavsiya qila olaman.

Bruklin barbekyu butun dunyoni egallamasligi mumkin, lekin bu qonuniy barbekyu. Va bu Big Apple -ga tashrif buyurgan har qanday vatanni sog'ingan Texasliklar uchun uy ta'mini taqdim etadi.


Menyudan tashqarida

Sharqiy qishloqdagi frantsuz bistroi Casimirga ega bo'lgan Mario Carta sherigi Patrik Loran bilan shahar markazidagi versiyasini ochmoqda. Ular Richard Krauzeni yollashdi, u birinchi bo'lib Wolfgang Puckda, xususan, Kaliforniya shtatining Santa Monika shtatidagi Chinoyda, so'ngra Nyu -Yorkdagi Rose Cafe va Lyuksemburg kafesida ishlagan. Uning oshpazligi frantsuzcha talaffuzini saqlaydi, eskartotlar, qovurilgan biftek va o'rdak konfiti. "Richard oshxonada bo'lsa, biz uning savoirasini olamiz", dedi janob Carta. "Mening fikrim - shahar markazidagi menyu va narxlarni Yuqori Sharq tomoniga olib kelish: 22 dollarlik biftek, 8 dollarlik artishok vinaigrette." Restoranning birinchi qavatida vino bari, yuqori qavatdagi ovqat xonasi va ochiq havoda keng o'rindiqlar mavjud. (Chorshanba kuni ochiladi): 1022 Leksington xiyoboni (73-ko'cha), (212) 879-6190, casimirnyc.com

GREENWICH LOYIHASI Loyihalar guruhi uchun uchinchi restoran - oq va oq, ikki qavatda, ta'mi eklektik va cho'ntaklari chuqur bo'lganlar uchun menyuga ega (qo'shimchalar 31 dollardan boshlanadi). Variantlarga salyangozli shirinliklar, omar gritsi va mandarinli apelsin bulonli halibut en croute kiradi: G'arbiy Sakkizinchi ko'chasi (Beshinchi Avenyu), (212) 253-9333.

TUT va VIN Nonushta, tushlik va kechki ovqat uchun o'z-o'ziga xizmat ko'rsatadigan kafe narxi afrikalik pomidorli sho'rvada bir hil kori, garam masala bilan kurka go'shti va gulkaram, mango va kaju bilan qovurilgan freekeni taklif qiladi: 73 Uorren ko'chasi (G'arbiy Brodvey), (212) 791-6300, mulberryandvine.com.

OMAR Bu restoran va xususiy klub Umar Ernandesga tegishli, Griffu mehmonxonasida joylashgan. La Ranita deb nomlangan restoran, bosh oshpaz Kenni Kuomo tomonidan "o'z-o'zidan tatib ko'rish menyusiga" buyurtma berish imkoniyati bilan Amerika-O'rta er dengizi menyusiga xizmat qiladi. Klub shaxsiy ovqat xonalari, konsyerj xizmati va sharob shkaflarini yiliga 1000 dollarga taklif qiladi: 21 G'arbiy To'qqizinchi ko'chasi, (212) 677-5242, omar-nyc.com.

BIRINCHI-BIRINCHI BIRINCHI HIYO Kichik plastinkalar va ixtirochi pizza uchun janubiy Bruklin pizza ortida joylashgan. Uning bar maydoni ko'chaga ochiq: 122 Birinchi Avenyu (Sent-Marks joyi), (212) 533-2809, 122firstavenue.com.

Rasm

OLIY BURGER Rhong Tiam Express egasi Endi Yang burgerga ixtisoslashgan oziq -ovqat yuk mashinasini chiqaradi. U o'zining eng yaxshi Angus mol go'shtiga koreys, xitoy, tay, yapon yoki hatto yunon shaxsini berish uchun turli xil qo'shimchalarni taklif qiladi. (Chorshanba): Flatiron tumani, telefon yo'q, rhong-tiam.com.

Hamptonda ochilish

CAPRI da BLT STEAK Nobu o'tgan yozda do'konini qayerda qurgan bo'lsa, endi ESquared Hospitality qo'lida bo'ladi, u o'z biftekxonasining filialini ochadi. (23 may): 281 County Road 39A, Route 27, Sautgempton, Nyu-York, (631) 259-2641, e2hospitality.com.

DELMONICO SOUTHAMPTON Qadimgi Savannaning hududida kontinental taomlari bilan taniqli moliyaviy tuman restoranining filiali ochiladi. (22 may): Elm ko'chasi, 268, Sautgempton, Nyu-York, (631) 283-0202, delmonicosofsouthampton.com.

YANGI Nyu -York shtatining Vestxempton va Long -Bichdagi restoranlarda oshpaz bo'lib ishlagan Todd Jeykobs Bryus Buschelning Southfork oshxonasini egalladi. Biroz yorqinroq bo'lgan mavsumiy menyu bo'ladi. (15 may): 203 Bridgxempton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgxempton, Nyu-York, (631) 537-4700.

Besh haftalik taomlar

Emili Vaynshteynda hafta uchun menyu takliflari bor. New York Times Cooking -da sizni nima pishirish haqida minglab g'oyalar kutmoqda.

    • Yewande Komolafe-dan tayyorlangan bu hindiston yong'og'i baliqlari va pomidorlari ajoyib, ipakli zanjabil-kokos sosini beradi.
    • Tovuqli tovuq va kartoshka uchun Lidey Xukning mazali retsepti, bezovtalanmasdan, juda yaxshi.
    • Brokkoli quturgan Alfredo bu vegetarian makaronidan Alfredo makaronidan ilhomlangan, lekin unga yashil sabzavotlar qo'shilgan.
    • Kay Chun klassik taomni iste'mol qilishda sabzavotli japxaga qushqo'nmas va no'xat qo'shadi.
    • Siz yozda qovurilgan qizil ikra salatida tovuqni yoki boshqa baliq turini Melissa Klark bilan almashtira olasiz.

    MADISON & AMP MAIN Oldingi Nyu -Paradise kafesiga hozirda mahalliy restavrator Maykl Glukman va East Hampton shahridagi Food & amp Co kompaniyasining egasi va oshpaz Erik Miller egalik qiladi. Ular makonni terasli dengiz mahsulotlari restoraniga aylantirdilar: 126 Asosiy ko'chasi (Madison ko'chasi), Sag-Harbor, Nyu-York, (631) 725-6246, madisonandmainrestaurant.com.

    RED HOOK LOBSTER POUND Bruklindagi bu muassasa "Sweet 'tauk" limonad kompaniyasi ochayotgan yangi do'konda lobster rulonlari va boshqa dengiz maxsulotlari menyusiga xizmat qiladi. (May o'rtalarida): 34 Janubiy Etna prospekti, Montauk, (631) 668-5683, redhooklobsterpound.com.

    SIENNA RESTORANI TBAR Yuqori Sharqiy tarafdagi TBar Steak & amp Lounge egasi Toni Fortuna bu joyni Manxettendagi xizmatiga yaqin menyu bilan boshqaradi. Tungi klub soat 23 dan keyin boshlanadi. dam olish kunlari bo'sh joyning bir qismida. (15 may): 44 Three Mile Harbor Road (Oakview Highway), East Hampton, NY, (631) 604-6060, siennahamptons.com.

    Shvetsiya oshpazlik yoz Xotira kunidan Mehnat kunigacha, East Hamptonga Shvetsiyadan oshpazlar oqimi keladi, ba'zilarida Mishel yulduzlari bor, ular oshpaz Mathias Drogie bilan C/o Maidstone mehmonxonasidagi Living Room restoranida maxsus kechki ovqat tayyorlaydilar. Shuningdek, ular dars berishadi va xayriya dasturxonlarida ishtirok etishadi. (25 maydan 2 sentyabrgacha): swedishculinarysummer.com.

    Harakatdagi oshpazlar

    ELIZABET FALKNER, o'tgan yili San-Frantsiskodan Nyu-Yorkka, Bruklindagi Boerum Xill shahrida Krescendoni ochish uchun ko'chib kelgan, restorani tark etdi va Holland-America Line oshxona kengashida ishlaydi.

    MISSY ROBBINS Madison Square Park va Time Warner markazidagi A Voce restoranlarida bosh oshpaz bo'lib ishdan ketdi. U bundan keyin nima qilishini hal qilmagan va uning o'rnini bosuvchi noma'lum.

    ROXANNE SPRUANCE, Wylie Dufresne uchun WD-50da, Stoun Barnsdagi Blue Hillda va qisqacha, G'arbiy Yon tarafdagi Tallulah kafesida ishlagan, Elison O'n sakkizinchi oshpaz, u erda menyuni Frantsiya tomon buradi.

    Oq banklar, Kaliforniya shtatining Berkli shahridagi "Five" da bosh oshpaz bo'lib ishlagan, Nyu -Yorkka Richard Parsonsga tegishli bo'lgan "Harlem" restorani va jaz -klubi Mintonsda oshpaz bo'lish uchun keladi, u kuzda qayta ochiladi. Aleksandr Smolls - bosh oshpaz.


    Le Barriku

    QAYERDA: Uilyamsburg

    Maison Premiere yaqinidagi jamoa Parij uslubidagi brasserida eskarotlar, coq au vin va boshqa frantsuz bistro klassikalariga xizmat ko'rsatadi. Ovqatlanuvchilar rustik yog'och stollarda o'tirishadi va devorlari vintage frantsuz gazetalari bilan bezatilgan. Agar siz Benediktning eng zo'r tuxumini qidirayotgan bo'lsangiz, nonushta uchun keling: bu yerdagi versiya hollandais bilan to'ldirilgan va unga salat va kartoshka qo'shilgan (brunchda hech qanday rezervasyon yo'q, shuning uchun erta keling yoki kuting).

    SAYOHINGIZNI PLANLASH: Fodorning Bruklin sayohatlariga tashrif buyuring


    Yer yuzida millionlab hayvon turlari sayr qiladi. Faqat bir necha o'nlab hayvonot bog'i afishalarida yoki ekologik tashkilotlar tomonidan yuborilgan taqvimlarda aks ettirilgan. Ajablanarli darajada katta bo'lgan bu hayvonlarning hammasi yulduz sifatiga ega: fillar, jirafalar, gorillalar, katta mushuklar. Zoologlar va tabiatni muhofaza qiluvchilar ishlatgan iborada ular xarizmatik megafauna. Pul yig'ish maydonida sherlarning mag'rurligiga ishonish mumkinki, ular pulni olib kelishadi va bu yerdagi sincap va lilak ko'kragini qutqarish uchun ishlatilishi mumkin.

    Restoran ekotizimi sog'lom ishlayotganda, uning xarizmatik megafaunasi ham bor edi. Bu dunyoning yarmida odamlar eshitgan joylar, eng yaxshi oziq -ovqat shaharlari munozara uchun har safar kelganida, ularning ismlari tilga olinadigan joylar edi.

    Ammo shaharning eng mashhur restoranlari har doim ham eng muhim emas, xuddi gigant panda, albatta, yashash muhitining salomatligi uchun eng muhim tur emas. Agar bu farq hali aniq bo'lmasa, u o'tgan yili aniq ko'rsatildi. Nyu -Yorkning eng diqqat bilan kuzatiladigan oshxonalari pandemiyaning ko'p qismi uchun qorong'i bo'lib qoldi, jumladan Grill, Atomix, Per Se, Baltazar va Le Coucou. Oldindan bashorat qilinadigan, garchi g'alati bo'lsa ham, bu ta'sir, bir paytlar doimiy e'tiborni tortadigan restoranlar haqida hozircha shunchalik kam gapiriladiki, ular hech qachon bo'lmaganga o'xshaydi.

    Nyu -Yorkliklarning pandemik hayotida muhim rol o'ynagan joylarning aksariyati - qochganlar emas, qolgan Nyu -Yorkliklar - deyarli Los -Anjeles va Londonda noma'lum. Qabul qilish uchun, restoran kechqurun kechki ovqat uchun nimani xohlasa, shuni tayyorlashi kerak. Agar u sizning uyingizdan piyoda masofada bo'lsa, yaxshiroq.

    Park Slopedagi g'olib, men o'zimning Bruklin mahallamdan juda uzoqda, och qoringa aylanib yurishim uchun. Boshqa tomondan, bu mening ideal pandemik restoranim va dudlangan asal bilan yuvilgan va bir yarim kilo qovurilgan kartoshka, bir oz qovurilgan qayla va achchiq xamirturushli baget bilan to'ldirilgan mening ideal pandemik taomim.

    Doniyor Eddi, uning egasi va oshpazi, o'tgan yilning mart oyida G'olib operatsiyasining birinchi qismini, burchakli nonvoyxonani va kafeni ochdi. U to'rt kun yugurdi, qo'shni sharob bar hali yopilmagan va hali ham yopilmagan. O'shandan beri G'olibning taomlari qat'iyan bajarilishi kerak edi. Most of it is destined to be eaten elsewhere, although in decent weather it’s possible to unwrap your haul at one of the small tables on 11th Street, just off Seventh Avenue.

    I’ve been a semiregular customer over the past few months. In the morning I’ve swung by for a macchiato and one of the remarkable sourdough croissants, tangy and a little salty, that the pastry chef, Ali Spahr, makes. I’ve picked up dinner on several evenings, too. Each time, I’ve been impressed by Winner’s ability to pack so many of the things I miss about restaurants into a simple exchange transacted through a window.

    One way the restaurant achieves this is by refusing to do delivery. You can order breakfast and lunch at the window dinner has to be arranged in advance, by email. Either way, your first encounter is with one of Winner’s employees or Mr. Eddy himself, not a third-party app. Apps may be convenient, but I’ve never used an app that remembered that a member of my household has a life-threatening food allergy, as a Winner employee did the second time I placed a dinner order. Nor have I had one offer to set aside a few loaves of bread, which typically sell out by late afternoon.

    Those breads are worth the trouble. Kevin Bruce, whose last job was kneading Danish rugbrod and grantoftegaard at Great Northern Food Hall, bakes six kinds of loaves a day in a two-rack oven on a tight schedule. It starts at 7:30 a.m., when hefty little bricks of dark rye shot through with sunflower seeds are ready. A sourdough boule whose composition changes day to day comes out at 11 a.m. the buckwheat version sold on Tuesdays and Saturdays is something of a miracle, at once suave and earthy. The baking day ends at 2 p.m., when the baguettes go on sale.

    A baguette plus a rotisserie chicken nearly always equals a satisfying dinner. They add up to considerably more than that at Winner, where the bread is just a few hours old and the roast was finished within half an hour or so of your pickup appointment. While you wouldn’t call Winner a French restaurant, the extraordinary attention it pays to ordinary staples may remind you of the neighborhood shops in Paris, where Mr. Eddy lived while he was cooking under Daniel Rose at Spring. (More recently, he was the opening chef at Rebelle, a French restaurant on the Bowery that is now closed.)

    The pandemic has brought the city a flurry of new pop-ups. Winner hosts one every week, with a guest chef who cooks a “friends and family meal.” A few weeks ago, the program introduced me to the rich delights of collards in shrimp sauce as prepared by Telly Justice, a trans woman who is planning to open “a restaurant by queer people for all people” in Brooklyn, to be called Hags.

    I don’t exactly remember which wine Lisandra Bernadet, the sommelier, recommended with Telly Justice’s cooking, but I believe it came from Slovenia, glowed with a pale-gold skin contact tint, had been made about eight years ago and, like almost all the bottles at Winner, cost well under $40. A conversation through an open window about Slovenian orange wines is another thing I’ve never gotten from GrubHub.

    Winner’s wine bar is in a former carriage house, where there is just enough room for the rotisserie oven, a few standing customers and a single table. Will strangers ever rub elbows there? Will travelers with freshly scanned passports give Winner’s address to their drivers at the airport? They should. There isn’t anything mega about the place, but it’s loaded with charisma.

    What the Stars Mean Because of the pandemic, restaurants are not being given star ratings.


    The Diner That’s Serving Queer Hospitality, One Patty Melt at a Time

    It wasn’t the bubbling mozzarella on chicken cutlets or the everything-bagel babka I spotted on Instagram that lured me into MeMe’s Diner. These were just a bonus. I had to check out MeMe’s because this restaurant is, well, super gay.

    MeMe’s Diner, a new Brooklyn restaurant specializing in comfort foods like meatloaf, patty melts, and Velveeta mac and cheese stands in contrast with nearly every other buzzy opening. Expensive handmade ceramic plates are nowhere in sight, and the kitchen isn’t shy about using Heinz and Hellmann’s in lieu of artisanal substitutes. These are the foods we want to eat—let’s face it, all the time—but especially on long, lazy weekend afternoons at tables crowded with your friends.

    MeMe’s was born out of a pair of friends’ love for entertaining and hospitality. After working together at Ovenly, a Brooklyn bakery known for its vegan chocolate chip cookies and blackout cake, Bill Clark left with the dream of opening a Brooklyn bar, while Libby Willis started a catering company. The duo began hosting dinner parties in Brooklyn, which eventually became the model for MeMe’s, their first restaurant together. Beyond serving playful dishes like brunch-time migas served in a sliced-open Fritos bag, the diner was created as a beacon of queer hospitality. Guests would be treated like friends or acquaintances dining in the founders’ homes, and staff would be treated with the same respect Willis, Clark, and countless other out LGBTQ+ restaurant workers deserve.

    “The hospitality industry is hard, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be. We want to come to work and be happy,” Clark says. He and Willis, a third-generation restaurateur (all her relatives told her not to do it), opened the door to MeMe’s in late 2017 with no advertising or formal PR—just the “gay whisper network.” Tables and barstools remain packed throughout dinner each night and especially during brunch on weekends. MeMe’s has already lapped up acclaim and media attention that countless larger, more established and hyped-up New York restaurants only hope for. In an era of dwindling LGBTQ+ spaces, MeMe’s champions queerness in an inclusive, progressive, practical way, infusing equality in every aspect of the restaurant’s operations.

    In some ways, the strategy is formulaic. MeMe’s menu offers tasteful, unpretentious food in a gentrifying neighborhood (Prospect Heights). The dining room, with its tufted brown-leather banquettes (crafted by Willis’ Hudson Valley–dwelling brother), artsy oil portraits of strangers (painted by Willis’ grandfather and rescued from his barn), and unfinished-wood shelves displaying Frantsuz oshpazlik san'atini o'zlashtirish, evokes the seemingly effortless blend of “chill” that every restaurant is chasing in 2018. At its core, MeMe’s, named after Clark’s grandmother, is what a restaurant opening in today’s Brooklyn looks like, but at its heart, it’s a proudly queer space. “We’re not just a queer space [or] an exclusively gay space—we’re a space for everybody, [run] by gays,” Clark says.

    Queerness is organically infused into every element of MeMe’s hospitality, from the gender-neutral greeting (think: “Welcome, folks” rather than “Hey, ladies”) when diners walk in, to not questioning someone’s gender identity when it comes to a credit card or ID that may not match their appearance, to Willis’ zero tolerance policy for deprecating language in the kitchen. On a recent evening, the restaurant quickly filled up with LGBTQ+ couples and families, along with a handful of straight-presenting couples several groups of friends crowded in the doorway in hopes of getting a seat. In the small bubble of NYC’s queer social circle, it felt to me that there was a high likelihood someone you knew would walk in the door at any time.

    “When we talk about queer hospitality, this is less about making a traditional gay bar or a space for gay people,” Clark says, “but we’re creating a very welcoming, easy, and desirable place for queer people to work in. When your staff is comfortable and not worried about not being able to be themselves or express who they are as people, that translates directly to your hospitality.”

    The peanut butter pie at Meme’s.

    Willis and Clark operate off an inherent sense of how they’d want to be treated at work, knowing that tolerance for inappropriate behavior often trickles from the top down. “As a femme-presenting female, male coworkers and owners saw me as a sexual object first,” Willis says of her prior experience. “And then when they found out I was queer, they would suggest I just hadn’t met the right man yet and that if they had it their way I would absolutely be straight. Working in an environment where you have to constantly out yourself and shut down sexual harassment is exhausting.”

    Meanwhile Clark felt the “culture of competitive masculinity” ingrained in professional kitchens and feared appearing “soft or weak at work,” especially since he focused on pastry rather than on the more-masculine-deemed grill station. All potential MeMe’s employees are informed that the company culture is rooted in queer inclusion and compassion. “If people seem to not get it right away and don’t understand why it is so important in the interview process, they are probably not right for this restaurant,” Willis says.

    Willis doesn’t prioritize hiring women or LGBTQ+ people, necessarily, though her original team was built through a network of friends and supplemented by workers from GOSO (Getting Out and Staying Out), a program that helps formerly incarcerated men transition back into life in New York.

    The goal is that the restaurant becomes a neighborhood staple, “where you can pop in a couple nights a week, get a plate of meatloaf and some greens or a big supper salad,” Clark says. And so far, it is. “It’s really shocking how quickly we had regulars.” The storefront that houses MeMe’s stood empty for more than two decades, and the fact that a proudly LGBTQ+ partnership and business model infused a new, nonstop energy into the space shouldn’t be overlooked. The restaurant business is undeniably tough, and New York restaurants, as most businesses do, rely on straight people to stay in business. Despite the massive progress LGBTQ+ people have achieved in recent years, latent and blatant discrimination is still prevalent. MeMe’s has to face all of that as well as the lingering stigma that a gay space is for gay people only.

    To bring the LGBTQ+ food community closer together, the second Monday of every month MeMe’s hosts a “Family Meal” (only drinks and the bar’s signature complimentary cheese puffs are served) to which LGBTQ+ people working in the food and restaurant industry are invited to network and mingle in the otherwise closed restaurant until 2 a.m. Ideally, the values that launched MeMe’s business will trickle out to restaurant workers across the city.

    “It’s a space for everyone who understands what you’re going through, like-minded people,” Willis says. “The best way to change is through community. Maybe someone will pay attention and go back to where they’re working and say, ‘Hey, I know that other people do this differently. Can we try to be different?’ The best way to do that is to be an example, so that’s what we’re trying to be.”


    A Restaurant Dedicated To Pickles Is Opening Soon In NYC

    They’re tangy, salty, crunchy and delicious. What’s not to love about pickles?

    That question has inspired a new fried pickle restaurant that will open this spring in New York City on the Lower East Side, according to Eater New York. The shop is the brainchild of the team behind The Pickle Guys, a popular kosher pickle retail store with nearly 40 types of pickled produce.

    Though the new restaurant doesn’t have a name yet, its menu will feature fried okra, fried mushrooms, fried tomatoes and other goodies (in addition to pickles, natch).

    Basically, if you can pickle it, you’ll find it on the menu at the new restaurant.

    “We pickle many, many things throughout the year,” manager William Soo told Eater. “We’ll try to bring that stuff to the eatery.”

    In addition, the restaurant will whip up traditional diner fare, including burgers, chicken sliders and beef sliders. Pickled items will be the main attraction, however.

    “That will be our main thing, what we’ll be best at,” Soo said.

    Like the gourmet pickle shop, the eatery will be kosher, a decision that represents owner Alan Kaufman’s dedication to the neighborhood’s Jewish history. There won’t be much room for customers to stay and eat, as the casual restaurant is designed for to-go orders.

    The Pickle Guys launched 14 years ago and claim to have the best pickles in New York. They’ll pickle anything and everything—from celery to mangoes to pineapples to string beans, according to their website.

    Their kosher pickles are so popular that they recently launched a delivery service in Brooklyn.

    “The Pickle Guys makes pickles from an old Eastern European recipe ‘just the way mom used to make them,’” according to the company’s website. “The pickles are made by letting them sit in salt brine with garlic, spices and no preservatives. Storing them in barrels, from a day up to six months, the pickles cure as they sit.”

    Can’t make it to the new restaurant? You can always make your own pickles at home with this easy overnight pickle recipe from Snappy Gourmet or this “killer” spicy garlic pickle recipe from Foodie Crush. And if you’re haqiqatan ham a pickle fan, make sure you try this pickle soup recipe, which calls for sour cream, potatoes and carrots in addition to dill pickles.


    Meet the New Wave of America’s Great Pasta Chefs

    Illustration by Ross MacDonald

    Illustration by Ross MacDonald

    Americans are living in the golden age of pasta, one not just of Italian interpretations, but original American expressions. Here are the macaroni-making chefs paving the way for our collective carby future.

    Josh McFadden, Ava Gene’s, Portland, Oregon

    Josh McFadden attended culinary school and cooked in Michelin-starred palazzos in Rome, but “somewhere along the line,” he says, “I realized I wanted to be more in touch with seasonal ingredients in a simpler way.” That led McFadden to cook in neighborhoody spots like recently shuttered Franny’s in Brooklyn and, later, Lupa, under Mark Ladner. “He is a genius,” McFadden says. “That’s where I really learned about pasta.” Today in Portland, McFadden follows the seasons and sticks to tradition. “Americans, without a long history—we feel we can put our own stamp on certain dishes,” he says, “and that can often go horribly wrong.” So he keeps it simple—pasta pomodoro, cacio e pepe, linguine with clams—and stays in sync with the seasons.

    Bruce Logue, BoccaLupo, Atlanta, Georgia

    Italian cooking is “not in my soul,” says Bruce Logue. Which means he’s worked harder to master it: He ended up in Mario Batali’s Babbo in 2005 and studied Waverley Root’s The Food of Italy on the subway home. Next came an Italian apprenticeship in Le Marche, and in 2013 he opened his BoccaLupo. He’s cooked pasta there each night they’ve been open since. Logue relies more on inspiration than tradition, and his menu is unmistakably from the South. Collards and smoked brisket make appearances the amatriciana is made with bacon rather than guanciale. To Logue, this is true to the spirit of Italian originals, if not the letter. “Southern cooking has always been about using the stuff that’s grown around you,” he says. “It’s the same with Italian food—it’s a very country cuisine at its core.”

    Missy Robbins, Lilia, Brooklyn, New York

    “I didn’t set out to open a pasta restaurant,” says Missy Robbins, chef-owner of Lilia in Williamsburg, “but it’s blown up—that’s what we’re known for.” The restaurant was always intended to be rooted in Italian cooking, but it focused first on roasted meats, fish, and vegetables. These were the foods she was excited about after a five-year stint at A Voce in Manhattan. But there it was, in the first sentence of Pete Wells’ three-star rave in the Times: “Missy Robbins is cooking pasta again.” Growing up, Robbins took frequent trips to Italy, but it was at home, at Leon’s in New Haven, “an old-school red-sauce joint in a not so favorable part of town,” where her love for Italian food was sparked. Now, at Lilia, she rolls out hundreds of servings from scratch, daily. “Pasta is a craft,” Robbins says. “It’s something you really have to do with your hands—there’s something about repetition and perfecting that craft that has always been exciting to me.”

    Thomas McNaughton, Flour + Water, San Francisco, California

    Thomas McNaughton spent his early years working in refined restaurants—Michelin-starred kitchens here and abroad that ran on exacting French technique. He plated quenelles and labored over stocks. But it was working in Italy, in Bologna, where he “became obsessed with how much food was intertwined in people’s day-to-day lives. That’s where I felt like I was actually cooking for the first time,” he says. He’s merged both threads of his culinary education at Flour + Water, where he can serve traditional Italian dishes with fine-dining attention to detail. In the room entirely devoted to pasta production, he’s particularly exacting about texture. “Pasta deals with texture before it deals with flavor,” McNaughton says. “And texture allows you to experience flavor in different ways.” So you’ll find simple egg yolk–based pastas alongside others with stinging nettle purée and minced olives in the dough. That’s what drives his five-course pasta tasting, not sauces or flavors: “The five different textures I want to deliver are what writes that menu.”

    Signs We’re Living in the Golden Age of Pasta in America



Izohlar:

  1. Ulysses

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  2. Virg

    Yes, it is quite

  3. Gomuro

    Menimcha, siz to'g'ri emassiz. Men buni isbotlay olaman. Bosh vazir yozing.

  4. Bacage

    Ishonamanki, siz xato qilgansiz. Ishonchim komil.

  5. Stuart

    the accidental coincidence

  6. Kirr

    Oh rahmat



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